Friday, April 29, 2011

Biz Beauts Run The Beach

One of the fantastic things about my hometown, the weeny - pop. 2000 - surf town of Ohope Beach in New Zealand is that the main cluster of seven businesses is run by women.

Maggie and Linda, 4ArtSake

Ohope Beach
Ohope Beach
Those businesses include art and jewelry store 4ArtSake, Beyond The Fringe hairdresser, a realtor, Ruby Dunes selling floral art, home and clothing, a brasserie called Toi-Toi,  a corner dairy called Beachhaven and across the road, The Quay Cafe.

At the end of the row is Linda Ferguson, 54, who owns the 4ArtSake, a magical shop and garden, selling her own sculptures as well as a range of jewelry, clothing and fine art.

The day I was there, her right hand woman Maggie gilded around making necklaces (from "trash and treasures" she laughs) stoking up the pizza oven in the garden and helping customers try on jade (pounamu) pieces. Maggie says: "You see New Zealand new through Linda's eyes, the beauty of the legends and Maoridom. The old tackorama used to drive me crazy."

Pounamu necklaces
 Their best selling artist Talulah was painting outside in the Autumnal nearlythere-sunshine.

Talulah
I tried on a flax bustier wall sculpture and bought the darker one. And pounced on a Burberry-like cashmere scarf for $20.


Linda who was bought up in North Carolina before living in Laguna Beach, California, tells me:  "Women run the businesses in Ohope because it is a great lifestyle and we can be near our families.  We are surrounded by beauty inside our shops and outside with amazing beauty of this little paradise."

"We get to meet new people everyday" says Linda "and really it isn't like a job at all! We come to work to play and socialize, my favorite thing about owning the business."

Dog made from old motorbike
And she adds "I never get tired of coming through the gorge and seeing Whale Island out from the beach."

Pizza ovens

Dragon made from old gas bottle
"My goal is to find some balance so that I can surf, sculpt and run the gallery and my pieces sell pretty quickly." Sculpting allows her to "live in the moment and nothing else matters at that moment."After being at sea, yachting for 15 years "something about stone really grounds me."


Along the footpath we arrive at Ruby Dunes, which you might remember if you came with me to Ohope Beach back in January. Back then mother-daughter duo Karen and Nikki Pocock had just opened Ruby Dunes and filled it with dreamy vignettes of hammocks, silvery pillows, antique tea cups and driftwood chandeliers, some of which were plucked from their travels through South East Asia,  and Nikki's floral designs. They know this ground pretty well, as for years Nikki's father used to own a butchery right on this very spot. 

Karen Pocock at Ruby Dunes

Next door, Toi Toi Bar and Brasserie owned by another daughter, Sasha Pocock is a place where you can eat "dressed to the nines or with sand between your toes" they say. You can gaze out to sea and choose from an ocean menu which includes prawns and kumara (sweet potato) and pineapple and seared paua (abalone) and squid with warm vermicelli noodles and tamarind.


And finally at the end of the "strip" is a corner "dairy", a place to have a nice cuppa over a newspaper or buy your lotto tickets.

Beach Haven
Across the road is Helen O'Keefe, 56, who has owned The Quay Cafe "where the coffee's as fresh as the gossip". (Yes, ironic that I've gone all around the world from my favourite coffee Helen in Oakland to another in Ohope)

The Quay owner Helen


I must say the coffee is much better than anything I can rabbit on about - and there are always little candies on the saucer and sticks of chocolate and the squishiest of fresh marshmallows with the hot chocolate. The date and apricot and choc chip scones are baked daily. The biggest seller on the blackboard menu are the gourmet meat pies and the venison burger with cranberry and onion jam on sour dough.

The Quay menu
"This business is all day, every day" Helen said and even though she previously owned a lake lodge "I wasn't aware that it would be so physically hard with the margins so fine, you are constantly aware of the business side of things." 

Outside The Quay
view from The Quay
She enjoys seeing the business owners and the locals, with some of the customers, like Bren coming in up to seven times a day. "This is a great little community, no pretensions very casual." 


"I work and I work" she says "but just looking out and seeing the beach and the sea is very calming. " She would not have taken this on if it weren't for benefits of the location.

I watched in rush hour - believe me there is such a thing at Ohope Beach though the patrons are all in jandals (flip flops) and sunnies and bit happier than most bods who haven't had their coffee yet - and Helen was calmly and kindly encouraging a new member of staff who was finding the till a bit tricky. "You doing really well" she said to her gently.

Says Helen turning back to her coffee machine: "We're all pretty intrepid women here. We add a bit of colour the place as we're all so different."




Which brings me to an interesting segway. Well not really, but just wanted to let you know I'm off to London. Literally, my plane takes off in a couple of hours...Apparently there has been a bit of a do going down there.  Definitely not a royalist though would have been overjoyed to be invited to the "Everybody In The House of Love"version of the wedding. Might just catch a random (though not official) after-match function.

Tell me, what camp were you in?

1. The world's gone to heck. Thank goodness for that wonderful wedding!
2. Organised a street party re-enacting the wedding real time and am currently sewing a copy of her frock. Still crying.
3. Think Katie is truly one of the "Wisteria Sisters" - a clingy, sweet smelling climber - and they all deserve each other.

Sign at Matata, Bay of Plenty
4. Didn't know Kate Moss was even dating Will Farrell ! Cute couple. Didn't watch, couldn't give a toss.
5. A category way beyond any of the above.


Monday, April 25, 2011

Need More Water In the Waves

Being home in Ohope Beach, New Zealand, brings back memories of the high times of my life. And the low points. The times when, as Cy, seven just said, scanning the strangely flat seas: "You need more water in the waves."

Me on Ohope Beach

My kids with their cousins, Ohope Beach
What about you - does going home trigger a melee of memories? One day on a long walk I thought about things I hadn't thought about for years and years. As we gobbled down fish and chips from Wally's on the Wharf in Whakatane and prepared for the two hour Kohi Point walk to Ohope Beach, I remembered my very sluggish, gloggy start in the writing world. As gluggish as I'm going to feel after eating more than my fair share of these chips...

Wally's Fish and Chips
Come with me on the walk, and when the whining (both mine and Cy's "How much further!!") becomes unpalatable you can reflect on the views.

Dad, Pietra and Cy, views to Whale Island

After studying for seven years to qualify as a barrister and solicitor,  I completed a one-year post-graduate journalism course. I emerged from that course jobless. There were only three journalism jobs offered to the class and it was evident I was not considered for any of them.

Otarawairere Bay
My journalism lecturer handed me a reference that was unusable. Not horrifically critical. No, even worse - damning with praise so faint it was imperceptible. May, if pushed, have the potential to write some light fare, was the gist of his one, single comment. That was it. And a lot of white space. And the worst thing was that was all I deserved. I had rebelled at the constant and divisive competition engendered in the class by opting out. And exhausted by seven previous years at university, I failed to even pick up shorthand.

Kevin and Cy on Otarawairere Bay
I had one option - I moved home to bag potatoes in my parents' fruit and vege store. I had learned from many student summers working there that I was ill-suited to working on the till. I couldn't add stuff up and was always confused about the specials on cauliflower. Bagging spuds in the back and unloading crates of carrots allowed me plenty of reflective space to feel terribly sorry for myself.

Otarawairere Bay
Eventually emerging from a couple of months of bagging, I asked the local radio station if I could work for free. The other reporters were ten years younger than me and so much more skilled at writing and newsreading that more than once I considered heading back to the potato bagging station where perhaps I belonged. After sending out countless begging letters I was offered a job at a free newspaper in the suburbs of Auckland. I had to catch two buses every morning to get to work, taking up to an hour and a half. "Hmm..." said one friend searching for words after hearing about my new position. Then brightly: "Oh well! I guess you have to start somewhere!"

Ohope Beach
This is not a tale of euphoric trajectory, more of a slow, persistent undulating wobble upwards.  After working at a NZ national radio station, I headed to England where I spent the next 15 years. And again I had to start all over again.  I worked for a couple of years at a Gloucestershire newspaper - I once literally wrote about a cat up a tree -  then a trade newspaper in Farringdon. Eventually I made it onto what used to be called in the olden days, "Fleet Street" in London writing for the national newspapers.

After a few years I had not exactly made it in newspapers but I was getting there. I worked for, among others,  The Times, the Mail On Sunday, The Daily Telegraph and the London Evening Standard. Television and radio stations began to feature me as a travel and consumer expert.

Mum and Dad's beachfront 
Then came baby Harley and I found myself immersed in a strange new besotted contentment but also in what writer Allison Pearson called a "deep sea diver" tiredness.  I thought I would be one of those mothers who returned to work after three days. But four kids in eight years rendered me too totally knackered to turn on a laptop let alone come up with ideas that didn't involve nappies or naps.

Mum and Dad's house


Mum and Dad's front garden
A year ago, finally emerging from the ether of motherhood I thought about freelancing. But I had come full circle, I was starting in a new country with no contacts. A local free newspaper needed someone to contribute to a column reviewing wine and cocktails. It involved buying at least three drinks. After filing one article I was told my expenses were $15, which if you live in the East Bay you know does not cover even two drinks. A far cry from my days on British national newspapers where one photographer put in a claim for a $200 t-shirt (which he said was ripped by a shark) and was paid without question.

I also started this blog and now find myself plagued not only by what might have been in the past, but also fussing about the future. Where will the blog lead to? Anything or nothing? Or does that matter? Is it enough to be just writing?

What the heck is the answer? Whatcha doing? I ask Joseph, 16, who lives next door to my parents. He's sitting on his skateboard ramp with his friend Hone, also 16, both looking out to sea. They are the top two Under-18 Longboard Surfers in NZ. "Waiting for the waves" says Joseph.

Hone and Joseph at Ohope Beach
How to live in the present? Because otherwise 13 years pass and baby Harley becomes this bigger guy and you haven't remembered the in-between.

Mum and Baby Harley, Mum's backyard

Mum and Harley, 13, Mum's backyard
Harley strolled with me to pay a short visit to some old university friends I'd heard were staying down the beach. The last time I'd seen them was 25 years ago but I remembered good times and lots of laughs. We caught up for a little while and then Harley and I headed off.

"Mum" said Harley: "I don't think those people remembered you." He was absolutely right. We laughed all the way home.

Have you ever felt you were starting over again?




Thursday, April 21, 2011

Bulls and Balls

Kiwis like to be silly, Tallulah said when we were in New Zealand in January. Too right, mate. This week, on our way up from Wellington to my hometown of Ohope Beach, we passed through a little farming town called Bulls, which bills itself as an unforget-a-bull town like no udder.

via



Everywhere signs keep us in the bull-ish loop. The police officer is the const-a-bull, the no-bull realtor lists houses as live-a-bull and unforget-a-bull and the Candy Cottage irresist-a-bull. And...well, you get the picture. I would have loved to be a fly on the wall of the town meeting when they decided on that one. "Hey guys, gather round - brilliant idea! Why don't we all put bull at the end of our names?" "Oh yeah, that is brilliant. What a corker idea!"

And what wee town has enough confidence to have a (very popular) family restaurant called "The Rat Hole."


And a couple of hours up the road in Rotorua we came across another inspired idea. I would hazard a guess this one followed more than a few bevies. "Guys guys, gather round...what about we hop in a huge plastic ball and roll ourselves down the mountain." "Oh mate! Choice idea, let's do that right now!" However they came upon it, Zorbing was born. Kevin and I waited in the cold and rain as our kids got trucked up to the top of the hill, squeezed into a massive plastic ball with a bit of water in it....and rolled down the hills like hamsters.




Down the road at Te Puia Springs' mud pools and geysers the rain came down in buckets and we bought $4 white rain capes. Our guide Mel called: "C'mon you Caspers, let's make like Richie McCaw and dodge these raindrops!" We did our best All Black captain impression doing the swift rain drop dodging making sure we didn't fall into the mudpool. In the olden days unwary intruders would fall plop into the mudpools and be part of that night's hangi (dinner) Mel joked.
Kevin and the Caspers
Te Puia geysers
Mel showed us into a dark room where we saw a Kiwi close up and asked us not to take pictures. "The only Kiwi bird you can snap is me!' she said ...and we did.

Mud Pools

Mel and I
Arriving in Ohope Beach, Cy took out his basketball and sighed: "My hometown!" Funny that, because he's lived in Oakland all his seven years and it's his first time on these shores. He's already a silly Kiwi.

Ohope Beach
Cy
Mum and Dad's house, Ohope Beach

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