Shoes on the Streets...of London

On my brief stop in London, on my way back from Berlin, the snow had melted but most people were still wearing big ole' boots with many, many layers.

Pink power: art student Amy outside the British Museum

and the Grayson Perry exhibition inside

Just outside the British Art Museum, art student Amy was clutching some grey leather to transform some pumps into unicorns complete with horn and mane. She calls her style "part fantasy, part Harajuku gone mad.... and all pink" Her lace-up boots "from some market somewhere" and her tiara: "Oh I didn't even realise I was wearing one!"

Photos from London Fashion Week showed off-duty pictures of models wearing their boots with denim cut-offs. Funnily enough the rest of the population declined to expose their bare legs.

Alexa Chung at London Fashion Week via

What I've realised is the average Londoner - whatever their age - take fashion risks. They seem not too bothered about appearing coiffed and "cute" but rather aim for the interesting and off-beat.  Flea market, main street and designer all get a fair share of the wardrobe. As one friend says: "Sometimes I look a bit cat-lady chic but that's all part of the fun."

That good-natured couldn't-give-a-toss-about-the-matchy matchy has also seeped into the restaurant decor as evidenced by The Zetter Townhouse in the cobblestone streets of Clerkenwell. This is where I met Kate, my Kiwi friend. At the Zetter you feel you are dining at the home of your eccentric old aunt, with a stuffed kangaroo peeking out from the corner, worn winged-back chairs, wafer-thin cocktail glasses and mis-matched plates.

The Zetter Townhouse via

The cocktails are mixed with tinctures, bitters and herbal remedies and I definitely felt a little finer after one...or two. "Supper bowls" of nursery food such as fish pie make you feel old-school posh and longing for the Nanny Crawfie you never had.

Kate and I agreed we were in the glorious shape-shifter years (nearing 50) and opting for looser tops. She wore a Day tunic with tights and her Miu Miu biker boots.

Boots with everything: Kate at home before heading out

Further back in time this couple were posing in Hyde Park for a new TV show called Teen High. Not sure what the era is supposed to be...

Teen High stars in Hyde Park

Next day I was transported to Europe in the Sixties at Leon's just behind the Tate Modern. All Mediterranean oranges, vintage chairs and family photos in Cairo. More modern is the nutrition ratings on the dishes including eight kinds of alerts about things like "Glycemic Loads" which apparently is the quick and the bad sugar. This means you are instantly appraised of how very swiftly that brownie - though locally sourced and lovingly baked - is going to stick to your arse.

I was meeting my old journo friend Catherine, who used to be a health editor for magazines and has now set up an ingenious new website called School Guru, which ranks schools. She, her husband and two boys have left London for a more peaceful life on the sandy beaches of the Isle of Wight where they are remodelling an old guest house.

Catherine in Leon's

Back in Queensway, I had dinner with my old old boss Anne and her family. Anne told me that the hot new cuisine in London is American BBQ, sliders and pulled pork. Anne is now editor of The Times' property and money sections. She had just written about duplexes in Belgravia selling for 46.5 million pounds. Generally I found the flat prices in west London more than double what they were ten years ago.

The Belgravia duplexes, via

Anne in her faux Astrakhan and snowboots

Anne is that increasingly rare creature in media; a top-rated journalist who is also kind and decent. We ate in one of the excellent chinese restaurants off the reassuringly still-scungy streets of Queensway, the last hold-out against gentrification. I forgot to ask Anne how she's kept her cherubic looks; I assumed there's an aging portrait in her attic...

Another friend Emma says she has a good solution (on the aging thing...) Emma and I spent hours and days and years together wheeling babies up Portobello Road and around Kensington Gardens. I'm very cynical about supplements but a couple of years ago Emma started selling Imedeen after one of the products cleared up her eczema.  Last summer Emma gave me three months of Imedeen to try (formulated in Denmark and not yet available in the US). I really think it plumped out my skin and I went straight to Boots and bought four month's worth.  Both Emma and Joanna Lumley - who endorses it for free - are pretty fabulous testaments.

Emma in Portobello Road

I arrived home as odiferous as a German backpacker, or fair dues, a Kiwi backpacker. Truthfully I hadn't missed the kids at all and hadn't thought about them much either. Then I caught sight of Cy's smelly size two sneakers at the door and felt a little pang.  But just let me enjoy my final hour before his other pair of (filled) stinky sneakers arrive home...

Shoes on the Streets...of Paris

Before my final post on France, let's announce the lucky winner of the Lesley Evers dress.  We have just randomly drawn the winner and it's...Erika of Cafe Fashionista! Congratulations Erika! Contact me at jbrettkelly@gmail.com with all your details!

What Parisians wear on their feet is fascinating - brogues, ballet flats, bicycle boots - with whatever they please. No rules - and somehow it all looks fabulous. In the St Germain area, someone called 'Meyer' (any of you heard of him?) was being snapped by the photographer Didier Gicquere. I didn't know either of them but judging by the wave of excitement, I had to get a picture too. The photographer told me: "He is a big rock guy, Rolling Stones and those guys." Clearly he's living the dream in his pinky-red leather trou and black bicycle boots. A gallerist nearby told me photographer Didier is respected in his own right. He was certainly very polite and did a good job of hiding any annoyance when I did a wee dance around him trying to take my own photo.

Earlier that morning in the Marais, we were lucky enough to catch sight of this kilted chap, Wilson Claude Balda, who tells me he does political commentary on television. He wears his own kind of boots, scooter-ready.

Back to Saint-Germain, at the sumptous Le Societe restaurant (the website seems to be so avant garde you can't actually click in to anything) we decided not to take a table -  grubby travellers' feet again -  but two of the staff were happy to show their footwear.

Outside, crossing the road, this immaculate gentleman shows that skinny is the style for both jeans and suit trousers.

On the other side of the street is the oldest church in Paris, a fully-standing structure from the 10th century (oh yes, said our Paris Walks guide, there are those who have contested the "oldest church" claim, but one dug-up brick does not the oldest church make). There are many men's stores in this area which use the word "dapper" and I can see why. This man was supervising some artisanal work outside the church and I loved that his purple socks highlighted the purple in his jacket.

Even the casual guys had put thought into it...

A couple of steps away, this wonderfully romantic woman, complete with bonnet, was walking past, wearing an outfit from another time. Just one photo, she said, I have to run.

Besides the skinny leg look, pleated high pants were everywhere, as seen on this woman who was racing off to work.

Actually I did find most Parisians walk very fast, because they are not checking their cellphones all the time. (And then when they are seated for lunch they are content to sit alone gaze out to the street and savour the food hands-free.) One incredibly fast walker was this chap on the left, who was on his way to the national library. At first I thought he was friends with this local couple but he just saw me taking the picture and though he would get in on the fun. Pierre Burger he said his name was - he took us to the library around the corner where he is writing a book - due out in November - about Iran.

This other couple just up the road were dressed for any eventualities with practical matching sneakers.

Our one brief foray off the streets and down into the Metro was eventful. We were pick pocketed - both our wallets gone - by a tiny woman and her tinier daughter who refused to move out of the way of the train door. After reporting it to the police in the Champs Elysees - who were friendly but befuddled and strangely shocked to be filing a robbery! - it a lovely sight to see a busload of brides from China fill the bridge and streets. This bride gracefully lifted her layers of tulle to show exquisite red floral heels.

This guy, Anthony Spinello, told me he has a blog as well. An edgy vibrant site called Dirty-Mag (and yes it's safe to click in) about art, news and street style and based in Miami.  "I know what you want" stepping each way into the light, "I've been taking these photos all week....Now I'll take one of you" he said getting out his camera, making me feel for a Paris instant, just a bit hip.

There are beautiful shoes everywhere here...they even sold in flower shops

This artful flower shop was called Rosebud, with a poster of Citizen Kane .

This couple were leche vitrine-ing near the Place Vendome. She is wearing Vuitton and works for Paris Vogue  - and he has started designing men's shoes, a pair of which he is wearing.

At the end of this road, the bullet-holed Place Vendome was scene of the last shoot-out between the allies and the Germans.  Just around the corner and pretty much at the same time, Ernest Hemingway pulled up to the Ritz in his jeep and walked to the bar. "How can I help you?" said the barman. "I'll take 100 martinis" said Hemingway. It was not known whether he drank them all but he didn't leave for three days. Hope he had his drinking shoes on...

Shoes on the Streets... of Barcelona

How do you image Barcelona? I was expecting a Vicky Christina Barcelona plethora of beauties drifting around the cobbled, winding streets in tan leather brogues and two-toned cream pumps. The truth is everyone cycles, walks and skates everywhere, which calls for flat sandals and sneakers. And for others it's more about the tattoo.

What is about me that people are keen to show me their tattoos? Er, maybe because I call out my very seemly "show us ya tattoo!"

Rental bikes are everywhere in the City. Whizzing past you, clipping at your ankles and weaving through the crowds. A new scheme imported from London means you can simply pick out a bike from one of the racks located all over the city, ride to where you want to go, and drop the bike off at the nearest rack.

Amid the 15th century patina, activity is everywhere. Some do everything on their skates, even their banking.

And in the Parc de la Ciutadella table tennis is busy all day.

Walking the old town is just as rigorous as any sport, and the flats came out for these Russian friends who had happily prepared with shorts, scarves and coats for chill or shine.

For work most opted for sensible shoes and boots for work, like this hairdresser who possessed a Sinead O'Conner-like cool.

Or took their shoes off, like 26 year-old Maria Roch, designer and owner of Room near the Picassao Museum, looking effortlessly chic barefoot on the flokati rug.

Down the lane at Lisa Wixell, this shopkeeper opted for comfortable white high tops, her pink tights making the statement.

Some older couples still do the natty dressing...

While other older couples have fully embraced the REI river sandal look seen on this chap at our favourite tapas place Irati. After agreeing to be photographed, he then ushered us outside to demonstrate his pouring skills, for which, as you can see, river sandals were key.

And here the picture postcard elegance of this woman, being passed by casual friends, one tattooed, one with dreadlocks.

This policeman, a "conventionally handsome guy", as my kids would say, could not agree to having his photo taken or discuss his boots. My boss is over there, he indicated but shrugged when I said maybe I could just take a picture of the street and he would happen to be in it.

I had bought a new pair of beige Miz Mooz sandals, bit of a heel, supposed to be incredibly comfortable and go with everything. First day, blisters.  I bought a pair of Campers from a local store. More blisters.

So it was back to the old gold Havianas jandals (flip-flops). Not high-ish, not glam. Just doing their flip-flop thang.

But proved perfect when the superpowers call on you.

Just outside the old town, we met these fun blokes from Northern Ireland and England fresh from O'Hara's Irish pub. They were in the midst of that cultural staple, the bachelor party pub crawl. They only agreed to a photo if I posed with them too - then in an instant scooped me up. Then Kevin too.

I'll tell you - the old gold jandals were in their element.

Don't forget to enter the Giveaway of a scarf bought in Barcelona. The winner will be drawn randomly this Friday 13 May.
A couple of the fun comments so far:
Trish: "Yabba Dabba Doo!"
Jenn: "I startled my baby by laughing at the 'demented stewardess' part."
Mary Jo: "One can never have too many fluttery scarves to cover the after-dinner tummy."

Shoes on the streets of New York - in six month's time

It's surreal seeing the shoes we will be wearing in the future. In Spring anyway. For my Kiwi friends, Spring is March, six months away. In my final day at Coterie , New York's top fashion trade show, I want to see what Spring will bring tootsie-wise. I discover: it is rain with shine.

Sorry to use bold with italics, but to explain: there was a lot of shiny brights that are right for rain. Like these Jelly high-heels. They looked totally prepared for water, whether it be rain or sea-spray and yummy enough to nibble on.

Having visited New York in the summer, I know how often people wear gumboots or wellies (rain boots) with their dresses, shorts and trousers.  The iconic British company Hunter offers an incredible range, from the old style army green, to heeled laced-up raspberry and purple and clubbin' gold.  I have never wished for rain, but crickey, these gumboots are just so puddle-splashing perfect.

Robert Clergerie, the French designer whom I mentioned before, has the seal-sleekiest grey and white stacked heels. J'adore you, Bob.

The sensible chic clogs of the moment are Hasbeens from Sweden. They are all prepared for fun and form with blue sling-backs and girly rustic in the grey and pink ankle boots. So lovable and the salespeople were some of the sweetest in the show.

And finally, not right for rain but great for shine were these zipper-love sandals for Halston Heritage, in orange. They don't really fit in with my "rain with shine" story, but they are orange so I had to put them in.