Friday, July 11, 2014

The Way - El Camino de Santiago

At the end of August Kevin and I are going to do The Way of St James, otherwise known as the El Camino de Santiago. It's a 28-day centuries-old pilgrimage through Spain and France, though like many others we won't be doing it as a religious thing.

The Way of St James

We will be away five weeks, allowing my Mum and her friend Pam, Kevin's brother and babysitter Conrad to spend some quality time with the kids.

My sister, Pietra, has done the walk twice and I asked her to send me some snaps...

My sister Pietra (left) with fellow pilgrims in suitable garb.  So not a glamorous walk then
There's quite a few brownish mountains to climb

Pietra at day's end with wine and melting pot new friends: Brazilian on the left, Spanish on the right. 


Pietra reaches the end
Here's the shell you get at the end. (You mean I walk for 28 days and alls I get is a shell?)

Most people here didn't know about the Camino until the movie The Way was released. Not a great movie, stars Martin Sheen and was made by his son Emelio Estevez who lives in Spain (yes that's what happened to him). Despite my less than enthusiastic review, you may still want to watch it as some friends have said it's their favorite movie of all time.

You start in the South of France and usually end at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in Northern Spain, though its a total of 670 miles to the little church on the sea, which is further. It's not an organised thing, but most people do it like this: you walk with everything you need, most people end up giving away most of their stuff and carrying one change of clothes only. You start your day at around 6am and walk until early afternoon. You stay at pilgrims' hostels or on the floors of churches in communal rooms with communal toilets. One meal is cooked for all the pilgrims. Details here.

Not really looking forward to that communal sleeping (or the unisex loos) but I understand it's all part of the mystical discovery process. No champagne-sipping chakra cleansing or Malibu Beach sun salutations on this walk, it's just time hours and days trudging along a dusty rocky road.

Am I selling it to you?

Okay, did I tell you that my sister lost about 18lbs both times she did it? Looky here.

My sister says pilgrims start the walk with a question and by the end of the walk that question is answered.
(After doing the walk some people change careers, lifestyles, or split from their partner)
"I don't know that I have a question." I said.
"Then by the end of the walk you will have found your question" she said sagely.

Maybe one of you has a good question, I can loan yours and cut to the chase?


57 comments:

  1. Jody this sounds amazing. You don't have 18 pounds to spare though!! You better start cargo-loading quick!! I am envious you guys get to leave the kids for 5 weeks. My husband and I would probably kill each other walking 5 weeks together.. You and Kevin are inspiring!! xx kim

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    1. Hi Kim, we haven't done it yet, we may yet be killing each other on The Way ruining everyones deep spiritual experience with our yelling.

      Apparently its good to walk by yourself a day here, a day there or with other new friends.
      Hopefully neither of us will "find ourselves" ...without the other.

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  2. I wish you have the best experience! I've heard not all of it is pretty and that is Aldo part of it. I hope to do it one day. Maybe not the full way but I'll start in Santander and try to squeeze in stamps on my passport. Hope you have all your kit and wish you a safe trip x

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    1. Actually not leaving until mid Aug, but still haven't got my boots and small backpack yet! Must start doing the practising with the boots, apparently the most important thing to get right.

      Yes, we know a lot of people who do a week every year and that seems to work well too

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  3. You're so lucky! I would love to do a walk but my arthritis was too bad by the time I first heard of these. Are you familiar with the "Solitary Walker" blog? He does a lot of these.

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    1. Hi RJ, I don't know that blogger, but will nip right over now, just did it, he has gooseberries on today, but will scroll down later for info - thanks for the heads -up!
      http://solitary-walker.blogspot.com/

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    2. Avril Keys (Irish fashion blogger) also said on FB:

      This blog was recommended to my sis in law who has been considering doing it. http://takenomitake.blogspot.ie/?m=1

      Nomitake
      takenomitake.blogspot.com

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  4. I plan to do it with my sister too Jody!..although not at the same time as you. The film was pretty rubbish but I think the walk itself would be amazing. I have a friend who has done it and I must admit I suspect I would be better doing it in stages over the years as I am so very unfit....and you really don't have any weight to lose missy. You and Kevin are very adventurous people who never seem to sit still for a moment....good on'yer.

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    1. Oh how cool Libby - when are you going?

      ....As for me, I am very often doing nothing and vertical very often, I'm a great relaxer, Actually this has been a great blog post as now I've realised Im going - and I better get cracking on the stiff walking!

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  5. We were just talking about this walk the other evening, we'd like to come back to the Yorkshire Dales to do the Three Peaks walk, which is err 25 miles! Done in a day. Amateur hour compared to this.
    I know people who have done this walk but not the entire thing, usually a week or two tops. This is going to be incredible, what a journey!
    What is going to be the ultimate outfit to wear is what I want to know. Gosh the hiking boots will be important. So how many miles do you walk in a day then?
    Thanks for that mention in your previous post Jody you are a doll and I love that chevron dress on you. Needless to say though it isn't trail walking material.;)

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    1. Three Peaks are pretty steep though and you have the added bonus of lovely tea and scones (in NZ we pronounce it with short O in case you're wandering) in arvo

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  6. How exciting, Jodie! I'd love to do the Camino. Two of my friends have done it (at separate times) and both are planning a return trip.
    We love walking with a passion (not sure about communal sleeping..!), so one day J and I will do it, I'm sure.

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    1. Hi Ruth, welcome back, hope all is well. Yes the communal sleeping is going to be tricky, may have to take one or two nights off in normal hotel

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  7. Seems like it will be an interesting trip! Hope you can take lots of photos!

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    1. Thanks Rose! Will only take my iPhone to take pics but the new one seems incredibly good. Am thinking I may even be able to blog with my phone (Naomi says there is an app, but the pictures are fuzzy)

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  8. oh get your boots in order. Apparently, the hot weather equals sweaty feet equals blisters. I know you are an experienced tramper (Aussies bushwalk and Kiwis tramp) but it would be terrible if you had to stop walking due to blisters and the only thing left to do would be to drink Spanish wine while your blisters heal....
    Earplugs are the other necessary thing apparently, lots of snoring, probably the result of all that Spanish wine.
    Question? No can't think of one.

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    1. Ok Boots, have to do. My friend's cousin send them pics every day and every day it was a different blister.

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  9. It is on my bucket list!! I can't wait to hear all about it. I actually loved the movie, but I imagine that the content and how it is handled might be good for some dull or overwrought for others.

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    1. I thought Charlie Sheen was good as he was subdued but the chain-smoking lady was annoying as was that Irish cheeky chappy person, though they were a bit cliche-ick

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  10. Gosh that sounds hard; but I could do with losing all that weight!
    It sounds a bit like "A Walk In The Woods" by Bill Bryson, only different continent.

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    1. I will read anything by that guy, he makes a walk across a motorway (which he did at one stage) interesting and funny

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  11. Jody! I finished the Camino last year on July 6th. It was one of the most amazing experiences of my life. Once finished, you will know what your purpose was. Plus it changes daily. Where your shoes everywhere for the next month. Two pairs of socks each day, a light silk with a light wool over them. I couldn't have done it without my walking poles. If you would like to chat at all, please email me doesanyonecarewhatiwrite@hotmail.com. Be prepared to meet the best people, drink awesome wine, and see a very beautiful part of Spain. I am so excited for you! P.S. It is a bit different than the movie!

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    1. Gina _ how cool! Now I'm really excited - you have sold it so much better than me!

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  12. That sounds awesome and like tons of fun, and lots of work too. Sure you will see much and by the end may want to go to bed for a week lol

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    1. Imagine we'll be early to bed every night after the two glasses of Spanish best red and beans and pork in a pot. Bit concerned about the early start though

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  13. Sounds exciting, but I'm like you, I don't think I have a question. And I definitely don't do roughing it anymore. My idea of roughing it is doing without room service.
    I'm not a particularly spiritual person and I'm afraid I'd do more b••••••g than contemplating the universe.
    My husband read a book about a man who rented a donkey and did the pilgrimage.

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    1. There are some who crawl on their knees, I will try and source a photo. Donkey sounds more sane

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  14. Sounds like a great adventure.
    Only question I have right now is; what condition will my family be in when they arrive at Walnut Creek at 5.00 this afternoon?

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    1. My question beside "God. What are we (and me in particular without being egocentric) are we all here for? " Secondly where are all these socks on the floor coming from?

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  15. I went to a TEDx event recently and one of the speakers told us about her trek along the El Camino de Santiago in most mystical terms. Frankly, it sounded like a lot of hard work. I'd be happy to volunteer to be your support vehicle, dishing out gin & Tonic along the way!

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    1. Gand T van (with crackers and salmon) would be very nice thankyaverymuch!

      Re your friend - she didn't meet a Spanish male "mystic" on the trail did she?

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  16. This trip I can not wait to hear about. Not sure you really "sold" either the movie or the journey...but I get the gist of it. Do hope it is life inspiring.

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    1. Agreed, I will never apply for a sales and marketing job. Despite all my time in Ca I still haven't got the positivity gene thing down.

      I suppose in retrospect I should have posted wee villages (my friend just emailed me: "I will never sell this walk to my husband now!"

      Although full disclosure, the old sister blister says there is load of walking along roads and brown hills.

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  17. I over use the word awesome, but here it is again. This is going to be an "awesome" trip. And I was going to sign up until you mentioned going without the "champagne-sipping chakra cleansing or Malibu Beach sun salutation" thingee. Still, what to ask? You'll know what to ask when it comes. I asked questions on the long walk up to the Temple of Apollo at Delphi in Greece, however, as you know, the Oracle was long gone. Still, things popped into my head like "Do it! You are Sparta!" I came home and quit a job. While I was there I even decided I was prettier than Helen of Troy on that trip. When I got back, got rid of the lousy boyfriend. this hike will be so cleansing. So, ask your questions and trust your answers.

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    1. Thanks for this Burnita, inspiring call to arms and without that gruesome stuff that went on in those days (though apparently the blisters have to be seen to be believed!)


      Did they ever know what Helen of Troy looked like?
      Apparently according to new xrays of Cleopatra, her teeth were rotting and she had a big honker, but they have deduced she was very charismatic

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  18. Oh Jody--- what a fantastic adventure! What is your plan for your blog while you are gone (Notice how I selfishly made this about me and my ability to read your witty writing?!)

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    1. Actually I am hoping too, thanks for asking Alexis. I am only carrying my new i-Phone and am hoping that will work somehow

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  19. Told you you were fit! That would be my worst nightmare but my husband would love to do something like that, I am so not the outdoorsy type unless its on warm beach.

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    1. Truthfully I am worried about unisex bathroom arrangements. Exercise regime will be restored Tues after i complete this article (after two weeks of procrastination...)

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  20. Goodness… you'll fade away if you lose 18lbs! Sounds like an amazing, if spartan, experience. I love a walk, and it looks like there's beautiful scenery along it… plenty of time to ponder your "question" (and relish the 5 weeks away from your family). I'm afraid I can't give you the question. Mine is "what next?" and I think I'm slowly getting to the answer (without flying to Spain. Although that might be nice)! xx

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    1. Firming and toning is well due is any given area of the 52 year old bod.

      I think when the world see your completed home your "what next" will be all taken care of. Assignments galore

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  21. Hi. Saw your post regarding "The Way" on a mutual friend's fb. Thought I'd share my friend's experience: He started with a 20 lb backpack but eventually gave away his belongings towards the end of his journey including sleeping bag and clothes. He walked 800 km (500 miles) in 33 days, averaging 25-30 km (15 mi)/ day. He lost 22 lbs but gained many friendships along the way.

    My friend is a 50-something priest who's also a great photographer. He has a collection of photos from his journey. And the camera and the clothes on his body were the only things he kept after giving away his belongings during the walk.

    Post walk: Backpack with camera/lens = 7 lbs

    Enjoy! BTW I'm a Lesley Evers fan, too.

    Joselyn

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    1. Hi Joselyn, thanks for coming over from fb and for all this great info I have to ensure a small pack and nothing but a change of clothing.

      So leave the ball dresses and tennis rackets behind...don't laugh ...my sisters took both in their backpacks through Europe and actually used both!

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  22. Several friends have gone on the pilgrimage, and told me stories of the adventure. I no longer think have the stamina for that onerous a trek.

    I'm not giving you a question; it would be my question and you need your own.

    Blessings and Bear hugs!

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  23. I'm reading "I'm off then" by Hape Kerkling, a German comedian who made the walk over 10 years ago. A good read but u can write better. We hiked on the Camino 2 days ago - I loved the 30 or more "peregrinos en silencios" who passed us with their large sign while jabbering away.

    We were passed by about 30 pilgrims during our two hours on the Camino outside Santo Domingo de la Calzada.

    Cameron

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    1. Cameron, that's a lot of smelly bodies.
      what was your favorite thing?

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    2. I had a Campari with fresh orange juice tonight before dinner that is near the top of my faves!

      Cameron

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  24. I would love to do this one day. I can't wait to hear your account of this journey.

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    1. Hoping to post once a week if I the blog app on my i-phone works. It should really be an opportunity to get away from electronics but...oh well

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  25. You will ENJOY!
    I would love to do this too!

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    1. I can see you doing it - but what about all the antiques and treasures you will see along the way - you would have to zero back to collect it (not such a bad propostition though...)

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  26. Kim's sandals are great. I'm crazy over pretty thong sandals. And, love your white dress from last post! Congratulations to Cy!!! The picture of the village almost makes a person want to do "The Way," but then there's that no "champagne-sipping chakra cleansing or Malibu Beach sun salutation" thingee. Enjoy!

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    1. I love them too, so chic and sparkly, quite worth the field trip to Capri I would say...

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  27. Hi Jody.

    The symbol of the scallop shell intrigues me - its not a cross
    or a fish, the usual symbols of Christianity. Of course the scallop
    shell as a symbol in our modern world has many significances in regard
    to the Compestela. I quite like a couple. That certainly in the middle ages
    people came from many places and many directions yet all ended up at the same place...

    As do the grooves on a scallop shell. In the middle ages people just took
    a scallop shell from Galicia just to prove they had done the pilgrimage.

    No facebook, email, blog etc in those days.‌

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  28. Pietra looks gorgeous! Got any pics of her taken along 'The Way'?

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